The Neighborhood's Gate — Kirkley Consulting

Just about every restaurant here has a at least a small TV set going in the corner. Larger, flasher places have big projection TVs set up. Apparently a bit of a Ramadan tradition has developed whereby each night during Ramadan, all the restaurants screen a Syrian soapie called Bab al-Hara or "The Neighborhood's Gate". Apparently it's a rollicking tale that is enjoyed by millions of people across the Arab world. To borrow from Wikipedia:

The series chronicles the daily happenings and family dramas in a neighborhood in Damascus, Syria in the inter-war period under French rule when the local population yearned for independence...Bab al-Hara airs during Ramadan and forms part of the emerging modern tradition of the Ramadan soap opera. The Arab satellite channels broadcast special programming every night during Ramadan to try and capture audiences from among the families who have gathered together to eat and break the fast.

The themes resonate with Palestinians young and old. While I can't understand what's going on, it all seems very melodramatic and the audience laps it up.

I've noticed that patrons start filing in to restaurants at about 8.45 to find a seat and order a drink and sheesha. At 9pm, the conversation dims as the speakers are turned up for the latest installment. Even the waiters get caught up watching the show! The place is a hive of activity during the ad breaks with drinks and deserts ordered, coals replaced on sheeshas and discussion and speculation over the show thus far.

At the restaurant we were at last night, there was even a birthday celebration held during an ad break. This involved a large cake being brought out. The cake looked like your garden variety chocolate cake except for the large firework protruding from it's centre. The volcano type firework (remember those) and several sparklers were lit, and and everyone (including strangers) stood around the birthday boy clapping to the Happy Birthday song being played over the loud speakers (in a mix of arabic and english). The fireworks, song and celebrations were all completed in time for everyone to settle back down to the next session of Bab al-Hara.